Good daughter gone bad: how New York fell for hoodies, grunge and PVC

From Rihannas oversized sweats to Alexander Wangs marijuana-leaf-print hems, snarly streetwear is completed the catwalk. Accuse the subversive affect of Paris label Vetements

The Park Avenue Princess with a fur coating and a caramel blow dry has is an element of the lead characters in the New York fashion soap opera since, well, eternally. But thus far, this manner week she seems to have taken leave of Manhattan completely. Instead, New York pattern has a new muse for AW16: a often feistier one, who wears hoodie garbs and stomps around in PVC boots. Glossy stylish is out, and haute snarl is in.

It was Rihanna who, perhaps predictably, “ve opened” New Yorks bad-gal wardrobe account. She, like Kanye West, has started moonlighting at New York fashion week. In her persona as inventive chairman of Puma( insert gaze move if “youre feeling” the want ), Rihanna regarded a catwalk depict to present her Fenty collect. The first look out was a duet of white-hot thigh-high boxing boots worn with a hoodie dress. There followed a parade of insurgent streetwear furry monstrou bum bags, brothel creepers, ultra-long sleeves, black lipstick, chokers and M-A1 rucksack hybrids. It was athleisure for the Addams family; the uniform of kids who like to hang out in the shadows.


Fenty x Puma by Rihanna at New York fashion week AW16.
Photograph: WWD/ Rex/ Shutterstock

Meanwhile, Alexander Wang, who has based his aesthetic on a souped-up version of streetwear, pushed a rebellious feeling. His collect was shown in St Bartholomews church, and he worked hard to reach the prove appear as demoralize as possible. Frameworks with chopped, dyed mane wore sheer close-fisteds, stompy boots, and Supreme-like slogan mohair jumpers with the words Strict or Tender written across them. In occasion the bad-girl vibes werent obvious enough, he sent out a skirt printed with marijuana leaves, a casing with the word district on the back( as in prison, geddit) and jumbo pink cords featuring a tiny embroidered ornament of a pole dancer on them.

The designer said he had been inspired by a 1990 s image of the shop front of Hot Topic a chain that exchanges alternative teenage stock music T-shirts, phony tattoos, whisker colour you get the picture. Weed hems, penitentiary citations and airstrip sororities: these were robes for those who want to look like they patronize in a goth mall, rather than on Madison Avenue, although naturally( and without irony) the price tags wont be any different.


Alexander Wang at New York fashion week AW16. Photograph: WWD/ Rex/ Shutterstock

This isnt technically a trend from New York fashion week at all. Arguably, current trends for rebellious dressing comes from the Paris catwalk, where a religion description announced Vetements has shaken up the style order. The name is designed by a collective including Demna Gvasalia, who acclaims from Georgia and is now pate up the powerhouse Balenciaga label. Last-place season, Vetements shunned indicating their catwalk in a fancy 19 th-century French chateau( standard practice in Paris manner ), opting, instead, for a Chinese eatery in Belleville( significantly less standard ). They sent out off-kilter tailoring, motto hooded pinnacles, acid brights, reproduced PVC aprons, thigh boots, and awkward, trailing floral dresses. The Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy and stylist Lotta Volkova Adam, both the group of friends of Gvasalia, sauntered in the see wearing a DHL T-shirt and thigh boots respectively. The developing watch is also possible summed up as purposely incorrect. Although it is reminiscent of 1990 s grunge, it find genuine. So authentic that the label has spawned its very own sect veer. A self-referential tendency, known to insiders plainly as being a bit Vetements.


Paris brand Vetements at Paris fashion week SS1 6. Photograph: WWD/ Rex/ Shutterstock

Back in New York, a strong collecting from Rag& Bone featured split tracksuit pants, fishtail parkas, panelled jeans and oversized knits. Even at the Lacoste show, where the cited inspiration was the clothings created for the French ski unit in the late 1960 s, there used to be details that felt like a dog whistle to those whose Vetements antenna was switched on. In a particularly strong and upbeat accumulation from designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista, hoodie, logoed garments were again in evidence. PVC ponchos, tracksuit throbs, baggy boots and intentionally too-long sleeves made the complimentary, reductive, muttered review that was a bit Vetements from the front sequence. Thats not repetition. This was the term of the week.

The snarly humor in wardrobe words at least is sounding off the catwalk too. The Vetements gist has taken hold of the front row and the street-style peacocks alike. A pair of Vetements jeans panelled, distressed and sculpted loose against the leg, which retail for upwards of PS800, were cooed over, while, outside the demonstrates, beanie hats and the labels logoed squall hair seemed right in the town sub-zero freezing weather.


Rag& Bone at New York fashion week AW16. Photo: WWD/ Rex/ Shutterstock

In periods of veers from the catwalks, this is very early days; the pictures are continuing in New York for the rest of the week, and London, Milan and Paris have all hitherto to divulge their side. But in the first week of catwalk season, the Vetements vibe is strong. Modes mood is changing. Its is high time to toughen up, put on your hoodie and get your snarl on.

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